Healthy oils for supplements

By Dr. K W Quirin

Some specialty oils are considered in this article, which are interesting for supplements and beauty from the inside and out. Besides typical omega-6 and omega-3 oils derived from - for examle - borage and chia seeds, there are other oils with less usual fatty acids like puninic acid and palmitoleic acid obtained from pomegranate seeds and seabuckthorn pulp. In case of amaranth and millet seeds, more specific lipid components like squalene and miliacin form part of the oil composition, which in all cases is rounded out by the presence of more or less phytosterols and tocopherols as beneficial by-products. The effectiveness of such lipid components is described on base of recent literature evidence.

“Seabuckthorn pulp oil is a unique source of omega-7 palmitoleic acid which is part of skin lipids and provides a building block for healing burns, wounds and scratches.”
-Dr. K W Quirin

The plant kingdom offers a wide range of seed materials. Some are the source of specialty fatty oils which are important nutrients responsible for well being. Phytosterols and certain fatty acids are essential cell membrane components and influence mechanisms of inflammation and immunity. Tocopherols and tocotrienols control reactive oxygen species already on small amount. Orally taken, such oils improve conditions of dry and sensitive skin and provide beauty from the inside. Topically applied they offer approved repairing, anti-aging, healing or revitalising efficacy from the outside.

Vegetable oils, especially supercritical extracts have natural complex lipid composition, closely related to the botanical starting material. The natural composition combines different advantages, which cannot be found in highly refined oils or single oil fractions.

Production of fatty oils

Fatty oils are obtained by different methods. Pressing is the simplest and cheapest approach. This method often implicates high temperatures. Furthermore the oil contains particles, gums and humidity which have to be removed in subsequent steps. The most obvious restriction is, however, the oil content of the starting material. If this is less than 10%, pressing is not efficient, especially in case of rare and expensive starting materials. The bigger oil proportion remains in the press cake and valuable by-products such as phytosterols or miliacin might not be recovered to the full content.

In such cases extraction is inevitable. Two options are well introduced today; hexane extraction, which is used mainly for bulk products, and supercritical CO₂-extraction which is the method of choice for specialty oils. Hexane extraction requires more or less refinement steps like degumming, bleaching and deodorisation for removing solvent residues. These are connected to stress, loss or degradation of vital components. Hexane extracted oils are not generally accepted and they cannot be certified organic.

In contrast, CO₂-extraction works under gentle conditions and exclusion of oxygen and eliminates the solvent residue problem. The method separates all neutral lipids as well as lipophilic by-products, such as carotenes, phytosterols, tocopherols etc. but no phospholipids. If more polar lipids are desirable there remains the option to use a small amount of ethanol as entrainer, which fits within the CO₂-extraction philosophy and maintains the organic status if needed under the precondition that the alcohol is obtained from organic grain. Normally, supercritical oils don't need refinement steps. They have authentic high grade composition without loss or degradation of sensitive constituents.

FLAVEX as producer keeps high standards by cold milling and conditioning of the seed materials right before extraction, and by adding its own supercritical rosemary antioxidant immediately after production. Rosemary provides the advantage of not only retarding oxidation, but contributes to additional health benefits. After stabilisation the oil is packed under argon in aluminium bottles or stainless steel storage drums. This guarantees a shelf life of two years even in case of sensitive oils.

Table 1 lists selected supercritical oils together with their yield, fatty acid composition and other important components.

Omega-3 and omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs)

It is obvious from Table 1 that mono-unsaturated oleic acid is ubiquitous. This applies as well to omega-6 linoleic acid (LA) in this selection but omega-6 (gamma) linolenic acid (GLA) is rare and typically found in borage and evening primrose oils, whereas chia seed oil is typical omega-3 oil, exceptionally high in omega-3 (alpha) linolenic acid (ALA) with a content of about 65%.

Rosehip seed oil and seabuckthorn seed oil, which have similar composition, as well as raspberry seed oil are generally high in PUFAs, both omega-3 and omega-6. Raspberry seed oil is a good source of tocopherols and tocotrienols whereas seabuckthorn seed oil is high in sterol content.

PUFAs of the omega-6 and omega-3 series are essential as precursors of eicosanoids regulating important and complex body functions like immunity and the balance of inflammation. Moreover, they are of vital importance for cell membrane function. Proper body function needs more omega-6 than omega-3 acids. For adults a daily intake of 8 g GLA and 2 g ALA is recommended, representing the optimal ratio of 4/1. This ratio is however out of balance today and has been shifted in the past decades more and more towards omega-6 acids in our daily food. To compensate for this deficiency dietary experts recommend omega-3 oil supplementation. Omega-3 fatty acids exercise control on omega-6 fatty acids by complex mechanisms of displacement, counteraction and competitive inhibition of enzymes (1). They are precursors of anti-inflammatory eicosanoids (2).

Oils high in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids help to maintain healthy skin. They support skin membrane function and skin elasticity and are useful in case of atopic dermatitis (3, 4, 5).

Phytosterols and antioxidants

Supercritical amaranth, evening primrose and seabuckthorn oils have about 1.5 % phytosterol content, soy germ oil even a record value of 8% in the genuine supercritical extract. Interestingly, phytosterols have been found to be useful anti-aging compounds, especially in case of photo-aging. Skin-aging is connected to loss of dermal collagen fibres which results in the formation of wrinkles. The mechanisms behind are based on proteolytic collagen degradation by matrix-metalloproteinases like MMP-1, and by reduced de-novo collagen synthesis, which both are induced by UV irradiation (6, 7). It could be demonstrated by in-vitro tests with human keratinocytes that phytosterols inhibit UV-induced MMP-1 expression as well as down-regulation of COL1A1 and COL1A2 genes responsible for collagen synthesis (8). The findings could recently be confirmed in a human study (9). Generally reduced sterol content in keratenocytes increases the susceptibility to UV-stress and the incidence of skin disorders.

The protective, anti-aging efficacy is supported by even small amounts of tocopherols naturally present in plant oils as well as by some rosemary antioxidant addition. Antioxidants neutralise reactive oxygen species and have the ability of quenching singlet oxygen involved in MMP-1 up-regulation. Rosemary was shown to inhibit oxidative cell damage (10), and sage antioxidant with similar composition has been demonstrated to reduce UV-B induced erytrema comparably to hydrocortisone (11).

Accordingly oils rich in phytosterols and antioxidants are described to be effective against photo-aging and photo-carcinogenesis and to act against disorders generated by environmental stress like hypersensitivity, atopic eczema, ulcers and inflammation.

Palmitoleic acid

Seabuckthorn pulp oil is a unique source of omega-7 palmitoleic acid which is part of skin lipids and provides a building block for healing burns, wounds and scratches. The pulp oil increases granulation and is recommended for treating damaged skin and aggrieved mucous membranes. The anti-oxidative tocopherols in the oil, which are synergised by carotenes for quenching active oxygen species, make the pulp oil suitable for pre and after sun products. The oil has a high content of phytosterols, which all together gives a perfect blend for maintaining healthy skin and body function (12, 13, 14).

Squalene

The special feature of amaranth seed oil consists of the squalene content, a poly-unsaturated triterpene hydrocarbon. Squalene is the biochemical precursor of steroid synthesis and is quickly absorbed by the skin. The benefits are rounded out by high phytosterol content as well as natural tocopherols and tocotrienols which contribute to anti-oxidative protection together with squalene. Amaranth seed oil has calming, healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is used especially for dry, sensitive and atopic skin, contributes to healthy cell membranes, works against skin aging and has soothing and relaxing property (15, 16).

Conjugated linolenic acid

Pomegranate seeds contain valuable fatty oil with 75% conjugated fatty acids. The most important one with more than 60% is punicic acid, a conjugated linolenic acid (CLnA), which is similar to the better known conjugated linoleic acid (CLA).

Conjugated fatty acids normalise lipid metabolism in case of obese and hyperlipidemic conditions and were found to reduce adipose tissue. In topical application, pomegranate seed oil is equally useful, promoting skin regeneration and decreasing the incidence of skin cancer formation. It stimulates keratinocyte proliferation connected to mild thickening of the skin. Since skin aging is linked to thinning of the epidermis, the oil prevents premature degradation. Punicic acid inhibits the biosynthesis of pro-inflammatory prostaglandins, another anti-aging benefit, since aged skin is connected to higher inflammatory potential (17, 18, 19).

Miliacin

Millet seeds have an oil content of 3.5% only. The oil obtained by supercritical extraction contains 1.5% of miliacin, which is specific for the material. Miliacin is oil soluble by about 0.3%. Therefore the oil is turbid by finely dispersed excess miliacin. Millet seed oil is high in omega-6 fatty acids, has some squalene and is relatively high in sterols and tocotrienols. The product increases cell metabolism, stimulates cell proliferation and tissue regeneration. It supports hair growth, has anabolic activity and leads to bright and healthy skin. The extract activates repair mechanisms and has anti-inflammatory property. It is wound healing and positive effects are reported in case of trophic ulcers, decubitus and purulent skin conditions (20, 21, 22).

Closing remarks

The specialty oils shortly characterised above have natural complex composition and provide a combination of beneficial constituents. They are interesting ingredients for the supplements formulator to realise new product ideas. Some of the supercritical extracts are available in certified organic quality.

FLAVEX Naturextrakte GmbH is specialised in supercritical CO₂-extraction and offers apart from specialty fatty oils a whole range of different botanical extracts, which are well established in the food and supplements field. They are bioactive ingredients, effective against different conditions depending on type of product. CO2-extracts are sterile and free of preservatives and don't provide base of germ growth due to the absence of water, polysaccharides and proteins.

Literature

1)Essential fatty acid interactions.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essential_fatty_acid_interactions.

2)Simopulos AP: Omega-3 fatty acids in inflammation and autoimmune diseases.Journal of the American College of Nutrition 2002, 21(6): 495-505.

3) Gérard F, Quirin KW: Chia seed CO2 extract: A revolutionary ingredient for food and cosmetics. Wellness Foods Europe 2006, 5: 16-19.

4) Bauer R: Linderung bei Neurodermitis - Nachtkerzensamenöl - seine Anwendung und Wirkung / Interview mit Prof. Rudolf Bauer, Universität Düsseldorf. Apotheken Praxis 1998, 8: 16 (in German).

5) Arct J, Pytkowska K: Gamma-Linolenic Acid - New Potent Skin Care Agent. Euro Cosmetics 2000, 3: 34-36.

6) Brenan M, Bhatti H, Nerusu KC et al: Matrix metalloproteinase-1 is the major collagenolytic enzyme responsible for collagen damage in UV-irradiated human skin. Photochem Photobiol 2003, 78: 43-48.

7) Quant T, He T, Kang S et al: Solar ultraviolet irradiation reduces collagen in photoaged human skin by blocking transforming growth factor-beta type II receptor/Smad signalling . Am J Patol 2004, 165: 741-751.

8) Grether-Beck S, Timmer A, Brenden H et al: Photoprotection by cholesterol. J. Invest Dermatol Abstract 2002, 119: 331.

9) Grether-Beck S, Mühlberg K, Brenden H et al: Topische Applikation von Vitaminen, Phytosterolen und Ceramiden. Hautarzt 2008, 59: 557-562 (in German).

10) Calabrese V, Scapagnini G, Catalano C et al: Biochemical studies of a natural antioxidant isolated from rosemary and its application in cosmetic dermatology. Int. J. Tissue React 2000, XXII(1): 5-13.

11) Reuter J, Jocher A, Hornstein S et al: Sage extract rich in phenolic diterpenes inhibits ultraviolet-induced erythrema in vivo. Planta Med 2007, 73: 1-2.

12) Erkkola R, Yang B: Sea buckthorn oils: Towards healthy mucous membranes. AGROFood industry hi-tech 2003, 14(3): 53-59.

13) Quirin KW, Gerard D: Seabuckthorn pulp and kernel oils: Valuable lipids for skin care. Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide 1995: 57-60.

14) Zeb A: Important Therapeutic Uses of Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae): A Review. Journal of Biological Sciences 2004, 4(5): 687-693.

15) Maalesch I: Amaranth Seed Oil: Anti-inflammatory Effects on Psoriasis Vulgaris and Dermatitis Atopica. SÖFW-Journal 2005, 131(4): 58-64.

16) Kelly GS: Squalene and its potential clinical uses. Alternative Medicine Review 1999, 4(1): 29-36.

17) Aslam MN, Lansky EP, Varani J: Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical source: Pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1 production in human skin cells. Journal of Ethnopharmacology 2006, 103: 311-118.

18) Hora JJ, Maydew ER, Lansky EP et al: Chemopreventive Effects of Pomegranate Seed Oil on Skin Tumor Development in CD­­­₁ Mice. Journal of Medicinal Food 2003, 6(3): 157-161.

19) Lansky EP, Newman RA: Punica granatum (pomegranate) and its potential for prevention and treatment of inflammation and cancer. Journal of Ethnopharmacology 2007, 109: 177-206.

20) Panfilova TV, Shtil AA, Frolov BA: Triterpenoid Miliacin inhibits stress-induced lipid peroxidation. Bulletin of Experimental Biology and Medicine 2006, 141(6): 685-687.

21) Nuzov BG, Stadnikov AA: Effect of miliacin oil on healing of trophic ulcers. Patologicheskaia fiziologiia i èksperimental'naia terapiia 1994, (4): 55-56 (in Russian).

22) Obrigkeit DH, Oepen T, Jugert FK et al: Xenobiotics in vitro: The influence of L-cystine, pantothenat, and miliacin on metabolic and proliferative capacity of keratinocyres. Cutaneous and ocular toxicology 2006, 25(1): 13-22.